Thursday, December 20, 2007
Wednesday, December 19, 2007
Glamorous chic--MGM Grand's grand-opening
My dad received an invitation to go to MGM Grand's opening ceremony, so I took this opportunity to check out what such glamorous events might be like (see here for a report of the event).
And the glamor started with the invitation, which stated the dress code as Glamorous Chic. Perhaps because my dad is normally a pretty laid back person, they called him the day before the ceremony specifically to let him know that it'll be a red carpet event, and to remind him to dress up. So the two of us panicked and dashed out to find something appropriate to wear.
Surprisingly, despite Macau's effort to be glamorous, I had a hard time finding a glamorous-chic-cum-red-carpet-appropriate dress. So I got a very plain, grey, cotton, See by Chloe, strapless, short, dress, and wore it with a cheap, $50 (HKD), string of pearls that I found last week. Similarly, dad scrambled together a Kwun Kee suit and a G2000 white suit for his grand appearance. We walked the length of the red carpet in about...5 seconds.
The ceremony was well-attended. The room was full of old, short Chinese old men in dark suits and boring ties, and some tall, middle-aged foreign men in dark suits and slightly nicer bow-ties and ties. All the usual local dignatories were there--head of Macau SAR, Pansy Ho, and chair of MGM Grand cutting the ribbon. Some of the guests came from Hong Kong just to "give face" to Pansy Ho. When they could plop into their bed, and how crowded the return trip home was going to be was a bigger concern for these guests.
After a few rounds of champagne, flattery, and card-exhanging, the ceremony finally began. The MGM Grand chair was unremarkable. He thanked all the employees for the work they put into building the casino, and Pansy Ho for sharing the gambling license. Pansy's speech was more interesting. She thanked her dad, Stanley Ho, for giving her the opportunity to do this, and said that she's sure he'll win in the end--an odd comment given that MGM Grand will be a direct competitor of Hotel Lisboa. All these, as well as a detailed analysis of who attended the ceremony wearing what and staying how long are fine points of interest to only people who're sensitive to the local politics. I will therefore spare everybody of such details.
The party after the ceremony was an extravaganza. The grey-haired crowd was suddenly joined by a big group of beautifully made-up, long-legged women of all nationalities. Younger men with smaller bellies appeared out of the thin air, again in dark suits. The said Veuve Cliquot champagne was not the only thing that was freely flowing. They also served wine, sake, gin, whiskey, and whatever else one could possibly want to quench one's thirst. For your hunger, they had sushi (uni, toro, and others), lamb chops, Peking duck, a slew of appetizers, two carts of fine chocolates, a dazzling variety of cakes and fruit tarts, and much else. Oh and of course, there was entertainment. A long line-up of singers and bands from different places came and sang. The nonchalant audience which paid little attention to the singing and much more attention to the portion of their food were jolted into ecstasy when the Taiwanese pop singer Jolin Tsai came on stage to do some lip-syncing and faux-pole-dancing.
And thus the decadence went on. The men and women circled the room, eating, drinking, and making merry. I must say I didn't see any evidence of the "grand-opening fatigue" that's been reported, neither was "glamorous chic" to be found.
And the glamor started with the invitation, which stated the dress code as Glamorous Chic. Perhaps because my dad is normally a pretty laid back person, they called him the day before the ceremony specifically to let him know that it'll be a red carpet event, and to remind him to dress up. So the two of us panicked and dashed out to find something appropriate to wear.
Surprisingly, despite Macau's effort to be glamorous, I had a hard time finding a glamorous-chic-cum-red-carpet-appropriate dress. So I got a very plain, grey, cotton, See by Chloe, strapless, short, dress, and wore it with a cheap, $50 (HKD), string of pearls that I found last week. Similarly, dad scrambled together a Kwun Kee suit and a G2000 white suit for his grand appearance. We walked the length of the red carpet in about...5 seconds.
The ceremony was well-attended. The room was full of old, short Chinese old men in dark suits and boring ties, and some tall, middle-aged foreign men in dark suits and slightly nicer bow-ties and ties. All the usual local dignatories were there--head of Macau SAR, Pansy Ho, and chair of MGM Grand cutting the ribbon. Some of the guests came from Hong Kong just to "give face" to Pansy Ho. When they could plop into their bed, and how crowded the return trip home was going to be was a bigger concern for these guests.
After a few rounds of champagne, flattery, and card-exhanging, the ceremony finally began. The MGM Grand chair was unremarkable. He thanked all the employees for the work they put into building the casino, and Pansy Ho for sharing the gambling license. Pansy's speech was more interesting. She thanked her dad, Stanley Ho, for giving her the opportunity to do this, and said that she's sure he'll win in the end--an odd comment given that MGM Grand will be a direct competitor of Hotel Lisboa. All these, as well as a detailed analysis of who attended the ceremony wearing what and staying how long are fine points of interest to only people who're sensitive to the local politics. I will therefore spare everybody of such details.
The party after the ceremony was an extravaganza. The grey-haired crowd was suddenly joined by a big group of beautifully made-up, long-legged women of all nationalities. Younger men with smaller bellies appeared out of the thin air, again in dark suits. The said Veuve Cliquot champagne was not the only thing that was freely flowing. They also served wine, sake, gin, whiskey, and whatever else one could possibly want to quench one's thirst. For your hunger, they had sushi (uni, toro, and others), lamb chops, Peking duck, a slew of appetizers, two carts of fine chocolates, a dazzling variety of cakes and fruit tarts, and much else. Oh and of course, there was entertainment. A long line-up of singers and bands from different places came and sang. The nonchalant audience which paid little attention to the singing and much more attention to the portion of their food were jolted into ecstasy when the Taiwanese pop singer Jolin Tsai came on stage to do some lip-syncing and faux-pole-dancing.
And thus the decadence went on. The men and women circled the room, eating, drinking, and making merry. I must say I didn't see any evidence of the "grand-opening fatigue" that's been reported, neither was "glamorous chic" to be found.
Wednesday, December 12, 2007
Gaijin (foreigners) in Tokyo
A common perception of Japanese people is that they are very xenophobic ethno-centric. I was therefore very curious about foreigners in Japan--how do Japanese feel about them, and how do they feel about living in Japan?
I got my first inkling within the first hours of being in Tokyo. The cab driver that took me to Tokyo downtown promptly told me, upon learning that I had lived in the U.S. for 10 years, that "Americans are no good." The reason, he explained, was that they're loud and obnoxious. They do things that Japanese would never do.
Well, the expats certainly lead a different lifestyle. Whereas the typical Japanese live faraway from city center and have long commutes to work, expats tend to congregate around Minato-ku. My real estate agents, for example, showed me only apartments in the city center, and could not fathom that I might want to live in a residential neighborhood that's half an hour away by train from the city center.
While such stereotypes are irritating, at least they're harmless. I'm more curious, however, about the contradiction in Gaijin-stereotypes. On the one hand, you have the Gaijin fascination and adoration (c.f., for instance, this excellent book that explains why Japanese women love Western men). On the other, you hear stories of Gaijins being rejected from Japanese businesses, and complaints from say, the Japanese taxi driver.
I had the (mis)fortune of observing the interaction between Gaijin guys and Japanese guys in Roppongi one night, which gave me some clues to the contradiction. Both were doing the slow but methodical hunter-walk through the crowd, eyes wide-open, scanning for prey. It was an eye-opening experience. Of course, bars everywhere double as meat markets, but nowhere else is this mating ritual so wrapped up culture, power, gender roles, prejudice, racial hierarchy, beliefs about marriage, and whatever else. The expats in Tokyo may well be very successful i-bankers and multi-national managers, but to these Japanese women who're not content to marry one of their own, the only thing they see is the white-skin of these expats. Ironically, just 200 meters or so from the bar was a white guy slumped over in front of a vending machine, completely inebriated and immobile, with a puddle of vomit under him. I don't imagine this sort of behavior sits well with Japanese notions of propriety.
The story about another group of Gaijins--those of us Chinese and Koreans who look indistinguishable from Japanese, is a different story. At the same time the driver complained about Americans, he told me that he knows a number of Japanese men with Chinese wives. He then proceeded to tell me about his neighbor, this Chinese wife, who he lusts after.
Hm.
I got my first inkling within the first hours of being in Tokyo. The cab driver that took me to Tokyo downtown promptly told me, upon learning that I had lived in the U.S. for 10 years, that "Americans are no good." The reason, he explained, was that they're loud and obnoxious. They do things that Japanese would never do.
Well, the expats certainly lead a different lifestyle. Whereas the typical Japanese live faraway from city center and have long commutes to work, expats tend to congregate around Minato-ku. My real estate agents, for example, showed me only apartments in the city center, and could not fathom that I might want to live in a residential neighborhood that's half an hour away by train from the city center.
While such stereotypes are irritating, at least they're harmless. I'm more curious, however, about the contradiction in Gaijin-stereotypes. On the one hand, you have the Gaijin fascination and adoration (c.f., for instance, this excellent book that explains why Japanese women love Western men). On the other, you hear stories of Gaijins being rejected from Japanese businesses, and complaints from say, the Japanese taxi driver.
I had the (mis)fortune of observing the interaction between Gaijin guys and Japanese guys in Roppongi one night, which gave me some clues to the contradiction. Both were doing the slow but methodical hunter-walk through the crowd, eyes wide-open, scanning for prey. It was an eye-opening experience. Of course, bars everywhere double as meat markets, but nowhere else is this mating ritual so wrapped up culture, power, gender roles, prejudice, racial hierarchy, beliefs about marriage, and whatever else. The expats in Tokyo may well be very successful i-bankers and multi-national managers, but to these Japanese women who're not content to marry one of their own, the only thing they see is the white-skin of these expats. Ironically, just 200 meters or so from the bar was a white guy slumped over in front of a vending machine, completely inebriated and immobile, with a puddle of vomit under him. I don't imagine this sort of behavior sits well with Japanese notions of propriety.
The story about another group of Gaijins--those of us Chinese and Koreans who look indistinguishable from Japanese, is a different story. At the same time the driver complained about Americans, he told me that he knows a number of Japanese men with Chinese wives. He then proceeded to tell me about his neighbor, this Chinese wife, who he lusts after.
Hm.
Monday, December 10, 2007
First impressions
Tokyo is a very neat city. The streets are clean, the buildings are well polished inside and out, and the people are super polite and nice. Many went out of their ways to help me. In short, my first impression confirms everything that I have heard people say about Tokyo. What used to be abstract concepts and ideas are now real faces and vivid imageries.
I knew, for example, that Japanese women are well put-together. Now I understand the extent to which that is true. They are very tastefully dressed and beautifully made-up. I have yet to see a woman with sneakers, let alone ugly shoes. If you're impressed with my high heel skills, you'll be blown away seeing how they walk such distances in heels and boots and whatnots.
I also knew, for example, that Japanese restaurants tend to specialize on one food item. Even then, I was shocked by a restaurant's big display window full of tonkatsu, tonkatsu, tonkatsu, and more tonkatsu.
As I walked around Tokyo, I was giddy and excited as if I were a mad scientist who's discovering this new land of evidence that proves over and over again the theory of Tokyo in my mind.
I knew, for example, that Japanese women are well put-together. Now I understand the extent to which that is true. They are very tastefully dressed and beautifully made-up. I have yet to see a woman with sneakers, let alone ugly shoes. If you're impressed with my high heel skills, you'll be blown away seeing how they walk such distances in heels and boots and whatnots.
I also knew, for example, that Japanese restaurants tend to specialize on one food item. Even then, I was shocked by a restaurant's big display window full of tonkatsu, tonkatsu, tonkatsu, and more tonkatsu.
As I walked around Tokyo, I was giddy and excited as if I were a mad scientist who's discovering this new land of evidence that proves over and over again the theory of Tokyo in my mind.
Help me decide which apartment!
Update: I decided to go for #1, Premier Denenchofu. It turned out that company reimburses taxi fare if I should ever have to work past 10pm. Key disadvantage gone!
My top choices (not ranked):
1) Premier Denenchofu
- Likes: spacious, has a nice view of the city (can see Tokyo tower), nice layout, top floor, fits within my budget
- Dislikes: a little far from office. If I work late (i.e., past midnight), the cab fare would be around 5-6,000 yen
2) Azabu East Core
- Likes: bright, nice view of Roppongi, nice layout, very close to office, and convenient location in city center
- Dislikes: over my budget
3) Shibakoen
- Likes: an acceptable compromise between space, proximity to office, and budget
- Dislikes: on 2nd floor overlooking a convenience store (i.e., very close to street level, and less privacy)
4) Park Villa Nakane. I couldn't find the floor plan.
- Likes: nice view of a park--lots of trees!
- Dislikes: a little far from office. Again, if I work late often, I'm in trouble.
Except for Shibakoen, pictures of the apartments may be seen here .
My top choices (not ranked):
1) Premier Denenchofu
- Likes: spacious, has a nice view of the city (can see Tokyo tower), nice layout, top floor, fits within my budget
- Dislikes: a little far from office. If I work late (i.e., past midnight), the cab fare would be around 5-6,000 yen
2) Azabu East Core
- Likes: bright, nice view of Roppongi, nice layout, very close to office, and convenient location in city center
- Dislikes: over my budget
3) Shibakoen
- Likes: an acceptable compromise between space, proximity to office, and budget
- Dislikes: on 2nd floor overlooking a convenience store (i.e., very close to street level, and less privacy)
4) Park Villa Nakane. I couldn't find the floor plan.
- Likes: nice view of a park--lots of trees!
- Dislikes: a little far from office. Again, if I work late often, I'm in trouble.
Except for Shibakoen, pictures of the apartments may be seen here .
Sunday, December 9, 2007
Fourth day in Tokyo
A company-paid business-class trans-pacific flight began my new life. No, not a new stage of my life, but a new life, new identity. Of course, I took full advantage of the free-flowing booze. Champagne, sake, mimosa; thusly I celebrated/mourned.
Glamorous? No. I didn't exactly walk away with shimmery hair, shiny eyes, and a bushy tail. In fact, I've been walking around in the past four days with eyes so red that I look like the wolf that fucked Red Riding Hood and her grandmother.
None of that is Tokyo's fault. Tokyo has met all my expectations and more. And these four days have been so interesting. The beginning is always interesting, of course, because this is when you examine a culture and all its contradictions before the cultural logics (or the lack of) eventually become the air that we breathe but cannot see.
I will be following up on these observations later. Since coming to Tokyo, I have also discovered that I have a voracious appetite. And since I do not store any food in my hotel room nor do I feel like getting dressed to go out, I shall resort to sleeping it off. Good night.
Glamorous? No. I didn't exactly walk away with shimmery hair, shiny eyes, and a bushy tail. In fact, I've been walking around in the past four days with eyes so red that I look like the wolf that fucked Red Riding Hood and her grandmother.
None of that is Tokyo's fault. Tokyo has met all my expectations and more. And these four days have been so interesting. The beginning is always interesting, of course, because this is when you examine a culture and all its contradictions before the cultural logics (or the lack of) eventually become the air that we breathe but cannot see.
I will be following up on these observations later. Since coming to Tokyo, I have also discovered that I have a voracious appetite. And since I do not store any food in my hotel room nor do I feel like getting dressed to go out, I shall resort to sleeping it off. Good night.
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